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1) Ball joint separator
2) basic hand tools
3) Loc-tite
Jack up the front or place your quad on
a work stand. When replacing a-arms
always do one side at a time so you can
reference the other side if needed. The
manufacturer recommends RED loctite
but I used BLUE. Red requires heat for
disassembly and I have always used
blue on my front end and never had a
problem.
loosen and remove the castle nuts on
the upper and lower ball joints.
carefully wedge the fork between the
ball joint boot and the steering knuckle.
You will have to beat it pretty hard with
a hammer to get it to separate. Be
careful not to rip the boot.
brake line holders from the a-arm, remove
the tie rods and tie up the hub assembly
to the frame out of the way.
bolts that mount the control arms to the
frame. Put these bolts/nuts aside you
will need them later. Give the arms a
good tug and they will come out. The
frame brackets will need to be spread
out a little to get the new arms in. They
have a tendency to squeeze together
over time.
a-arms. First put the frame ends in and
slide in the bolts. Thread on the nuts
hand tight for now. Put the hub assembly
back in place and push the ball joints into
the steering knuckle. Different
manufacturers have different set ups as
far as the type of ball joints they use. Most
use a Heim style ball joint. It may look
different than your stock ball joint but will
perform better. But they also require more
maintenance. I clean mine with Brakleen
and spray them down with a lubricant after
every wash. The arms I received from Full
Flight Racing came with Heim joints at
every corner which makes them 6-way
adjustable. More on that later.
rods longer. Measure the length of your
tie rod assembly. Remove the ends from
the rods. Remember one threads on
backwards. Now thread the ends onto the
new longer rods and adjust accordingly
for the proper length. Once you are done
you can re-install the tie rod assemblies
but do not tighten anything.
other side and you are just about done.
upper a-arm ball joint versus the bottom ball joint. This means the top ball
joint or a-arm travels a small distance behind the bottom one. This allows
the ATV to turn more quickly. You can put less positive caster and make
the ATV steer a little slower and it will track better at higher speeds. Most
desert racers will use this set up. You are probably better off starting with
the factory specs and then making adjustments from there.
Negative camber is the setting where the top of the wheels are closer
together than the bottom of the wheels. This means the top of the wheels
are leaned inward. This allows the ATV to take turns more aggressively. It
allows aggressive cornering by keeping the tread of the tire in more contact
with the terrain surface and you get less sliding and slippage.
Toe in means the wheels are closer together at the front than they are in
the back. We recommend a 1/8" toe in each side starting out as this is
close to the factory spec. More toe in will make the ATV turn faster and less
toe in will make it turn slower but track a little better.
Positive caster - Adjust the top a-arm front heims in or out.
Negative camber - Adjust the upper or lower heim ball joints in or out.
Toe in - Adjust by turning the tie rods in or out.
plenty of loc-tite. You don't want your front end coming apart. That could
hurt.
supplying the arms for this project.
and all other Honda related terms are property of Honda America Corporation.