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1) A set of stainless Steel brake lines
2) Hand Tools
3) Vacuum Gun may be needed
4) Dot 4 brake fluid
5) 2 sets of hands for bleeding(optional)
There are banjo bolts where the lines
go into the calipers and master
cylinder(A banjo bolt is a hollow bolt
with a hole in it to allow the brake fluid
to flow through). Remove the 2 bolts at
the calipers. One at a time and carefully
let the fluid drain out. Do not let this
fluid get on anything. It will destroy paint
and other stuff. You will see that each
one has two copper washer seals.
Discard these as they are not
re-usable. You may need to pump the
brake lever to get all the fluid out.
master cylinder. Use a shop rag to
catch any remaining fluid that might
come out when doing this.
that the lines are routed under the
hood and down by the bottom of the
steering stem. Then out the a-arms to
the calipers. Remove all the bolts that
hold them on and remove the lines. The
lines will have some fluid in them so be
careful where you lay them.
ups. One using a splitter block like the
stock lines have and one where there
are 2 separate lines that run from the
master cylinder to the calipers. This set
up has a longer banjo bolt at the
master cylinder with 2 holes in it. I have
the 2 separate lines. I am not sure if
one is better than the other though.
the stock ones came out. You may
need to route them a little different and
some of the hold downs may not be
usable with the aftermarket lines. Use
plastic wire ties when needed. You can
also buy billet brake line holders for
the a-arms. Make sure you use all new
copper sealing washers and tighten
the bolts to spec.
bolts tightened, and routed properly.
Making sure there is no interference
when turning the steering. You are
ready to start bleeding.
cylinder with fluid. Make sure to keep it
full at all times during this procedure.
Starting with the left side caliper, loosen
the bleeder. Start pumping the brake
lever until fluid flows out and then
tighten the bleeder. Do the same with
the right side. Remember to keep the
master full. Now go back to the left side.
Start pumping the lever again. Hold the
lever down and crack open the bleeder.
You should get some spurts of air and
then some fluid will flow out. With the
lever still held down, tighten the
bleeder. Keep doing this until the lever
gets firm. The more you do it the more
air you will get out. The more air you
get out, the better the brakes will
perform. Ideally you want all the air out
but I think that is impossible. If you are
lucky, that is it, you are done.
and full of air, bleeding could take a
while and be very hard to get a firm
lever. In fact I bled for about 45
minutes before I even started getting a
firm lever. Even then I could not get a
firm lever I was happy with. The system
was air locked. Tapping on the caliper
very gently with a ball peen hammer
can sometimes loosen up the air
bubbles. This turned out to be a long
night for me but I finally got a pedal
that I could live with for the next day's
ride. I would be back to address this
problem next week.
vacuum gun the next week. With this
set up properly and the can in place, it
can be used like a suction gun or
"power bleeder". Simply attach the
hose to the open brake bleeder and
start pumping. It sucks fluid and air
through the system and will usually
leave no air bubbles. Keep the master
cylinder full.
the brake line kit for this project. Click on the image
below to be directed to their web-site to order yours
and all other Honda related terms are property of Honda America Corporation.